Tuning eh? You're asking it on a public server so I doubt you'd get much of professional help!
But my 2 cents for a muscle dragster is:
HUGE rear rim and medium size front
front springs maximum rate (all the way to the right)
That makes them as firm as possible
rear springs about 75% to the right (significantly softer than the front)
The hard front, soft back configuration induces understeer so aiding stability for a hot rod that only goes straight. I never tested but it seems to help wheelies too, when the back is softer though i wouldn't want it tissue paper soft or (IRL) I guess the huge rears would start scraping the chassis.
ride height minimal
Lower, less drag, and that's why I want the front hard
Hard front might cause problems with potholes and stuff and I have had cars just spin out of control.. so i leave the compression and rebound ratings about 15% softer than the spring rate in the hope of letting them soak up bumps better. You dont want a twitchy car at 300+ kph
and thats why...
I set toe in to full negative (wheels look like pointed inwards) for max stability, thats all the way to the right, and caster (the one that the detail says it aids stability) full positive which is the second last row all the way to the left.
Steering rate maximum stiffness cos.. it only goes straight.
And that's my universal formulae for RWD dragsters since I don't drive AWD or FWD for dragging for quite obvious reasons. If it doesn't result in your desired 7.2s then please note that this is my approach to NFSPS drag tuning and it works well for me so far.
That, or get a supercar like the Porsche 911 Turbo.. that one accelerates like a bat out of hell the moment you dab on the accelerator. In the words of Jeremy Clarkson, 40-60mph in one second. And that's in the real life stock form that the game -tries- to be similar to. And indeed, last time I tried one on grip races its nigh unstoppable. Until I got bored of it and drove a real car again, not a UFO
