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MarlboroMan
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Post by MarlboroMan »

okay i got it.
:D

i got a little question to ask, diesel engine runs a higher efficientcy, less toxic gas is generated, didn't require spark plugs.....
so, why the petrol gasoline engine is created ?
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Pelado
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Post by Pelado »

I´m not much into tech, but are you sure that diesel engine runs a higher efficientcy and less toxic gas is generated?
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Post by MarlboroMan »

well, got an answer copied from a site,
pelado
opps sorry i noticed that the diesel emmision still suck.

Pickup truck diesel engines of a decade ago were noisy, smelly and shook like a washing machine with an out-of-balance load. Today's pickup truck diesel engines are much more civilized, but are they really any better than their gasoline counterparts? To answer this, you need to understand the good, bad and ugly of each engine. You also need to seriously consider how you'll use the truck because each engine is better suited for certain duties. And remember, you can only get a diesel engine in 3/4- and 1-ton pickups—there are no 1/2-ton diesels. Let's take a look at the most important criteria.

Noise & Vibration
Advantage gasoline. Despite huge improvements in noise isolation and engine noise technology in pickup trucks in the past 10 years, diesels are still noisier and shake more than their gasoline brothers. However, a recent back-to-back drive in two Ford trucks; one equipped with a 5.4L gas V-8 and the other fitted with the new Powerstroke 6.0L diesel V-8, showed us that diesels aren't that far behind. At idle, the clatter and shake of the diesel is clearly noticeable, while it's tough to tell if the gas engine is even running. Under low-speed acceleration, the diesel still makes more noise. But, once you're up to speed, there is little difference between the two even when accelerating on the highway.

Power & Torque
Split decision. Typically, gas engines make more horsepower, while diesels produce more torque. Are you looking for off-the-line acceleration of an unloaded truck? Maybe you use your truck around town where quick starts are important and you don't tow a trailer or haul a load often. If this is the case, then you'll want a gas engine. By design, gas engines rev up faster and are able to reach higher rpm peaks than diesels. This allows them to attain higher horsepower numbers and quicker 0 to 60 mph times.

However, if towing capacity and brute pulling force are your game, then a diesel is for you. The torque advantage diesels have is perfectly suited for pulling heavy loads up steep grades. Because of the relatively high compression ratio necessary to ignite the diesel fuel (17:1 diesel vs. 9:1 gas), a diesel makes all of its torque and power low in the rev range. As an example, the 8.1L gasoline V-8 found in Chevrolet and GMC pickups puts out 340 horsepower and 455 lb.-ft. of torque, while GM's 6.6L V-8 turbo diesel makes slightly less horsepower at only 300, but makes up for it in torque with a healthy 520 lb.-ft. of grunt.

Initial Cost
Advantage gasoline. Because of the high compression ratios and resulting high cylinder pressure found in diesel engines, they must be built to withstand more punishment than gas engines. Beefed up parts include a thicker block and cylinder heads, and stronger connecting rods, pistons, crankshaft and valves. These parts can be costly. As an example, if you upgrade a 2003 F-250 from the standard 5.4L V-8 to the new 6.0L turbo diesel V-8, you're going to spend around $5,000. However, to go from the 5.4L to the 6.8L V-10 gasoline engine, the price is a more manageable $600. Another diesel disadvantage that comes as a byproduct of needing heavy-duty components is increased weight. A diesel engine can weigh several hundred pounds more than a comparable gas model.

Fuel Economy |
Advantage diesel. Diesel fuel has a higher energy density than gasoline. One gallon of diesel contains approximately 147,000 BTUs of energy, while a gallon of gasoline only has 125,000 BTUs. This means that it takes more gasoline to equal the power output of diesel, making diesel engines more efficient per gallon of fuel burned. Also, because diesel engines use the more efficient direct fuel injection method (fuel injected directly into cylinder) compared to the port fuel injection setup used in gas engines where gas is mixed with incoming air in the intake manifold, the diesel system has very little wasted, or unburned fuel. Diesels also use about 1/3 as much fuel at idle as gasoline units. Even though there are no official EPA mileage figures for 3/4-ton and bigger trucks, we've seen diesels get 6-8 more mpg than similar weight gas pickups. Over the life of the truck, this advantage could be significant, especially if you drive a lot of miles.

Short-Term Care | Back To Top
Advantage gasoline. Regular maintenance on a diesel is more costly thanks to several items, including the larger volume of oil in the engine, and the fact that fuel filters and water separators need to be serviced more often. Modern gas engines have an even bigger advantage thanks to extended service intervals on things such as spark plugs, engine oil and antifreeze.

Long-Term Care
Advantage diesel. The flip side of a diesel engine's expensive initial cost is its excellent durability. Dodge, Ford and GM learned long ago that they were better off buying diesel technology from experts such as Cummins, International and Isuzu than spending tons of money developing it themselves. These manufacturers all have years of experience building heavy-duty, over-the-road diesels that have to log 100,000 miles a year for years on end, routinely haul heavy loads and may have to idle for days at a time. Think of the diesel engines found in GM, Ford and Dodge pickups and SUVs as mini big-rig engines. The average gas engine is only good for around 125,000 miles before needing a rebuild and isn't designed to constantly pull a heavy load. A diesel can go more than three times this amount before needing an overhaul.

Cold Weather
Advantage gasoline. Anyone who has tried to start a diesel engine on a cold winter's morning knows the winner in this category. Diesels don't have spark plugs like gasoline engines do. The fuel is ignited spontaneously once it's injected into the cylinder that's already under pressure. When it's cold (below 30 degrees Fahrenheit), the air isn't hot enough to ignite the diesel fuel. To help counter this, today's diesel pickup truck engines use a computer, which senses cylinder temperature and injects the fuel later in the engine rotation. By injecting the fuel when the piston is closer to top dead center, the cylinder is under more pressure and the air inside is hotter which aids combustion. As an added measure, most modern diesels come equipped with a 110-volt heating element designed to keep the engine block warm when the truck is parked.

Smell & Emissions
Advantage gasoline. Despite petroleum companies best efforts at producing diesel fuel with lower sulfur levels, burned diesel fuel still smells much worse than burned gasoline. Beyond the smelly tailpipe, diesel still lags behind gasoline in the areas of oxides of nitrogen (NOx) and particulate matter emissions. It's the particulate matter that causes the black soot seen emanating from diesel vehicle tailpipes, while NOx is one of the components of smog. The next generation of diesel fuel is generally thought to improve on this situation.

Fuel Cost
Advantage diesel. Because diesel fuel is easier to refine, taking less time to get from raw petroleum to final product than gasoline, it's usually priced lower than gas. However, occasionally in the U.S., diesel is priced the same or more than 87 octane gas. This is often attributed to the fact that diesel isn't as desirable in some areas leading to higher diesel prices. However, diesel advocates say that if more people drove diesel light trucks and cars, the price would drop dramatically in these areas—and possibly throughout the country.

Fuel Availability
Advantage gasoline. The lack of fuel availability is the reason we hear most often as to why people don't choose a diesel engine. Only about two percent of the nation's cars are diesel powered, compared with 25% for some European countries. The number is larger for light trucks and SUVs in the U.S., but the overwhelming majority are gasoline-powered. It's kind of like the chicken vs. the egg scenario. The car manufacturers say they'll build more diesels if people will buy them. Consumers say they'd consider diesels if there were more fuel stations that dispensed diesel. Fuel companies, in turn say they'd produce more diesel if consumers wanted it. Diesel pumps can be found in most areas that have a large amount of commercial truck traffic.

Conclusion
Choosing between a gas and diesel engine really comes down to what you'll do with the truck and where you live. If you use your truck like a car, desire quick, quiet acceleration, rarely haul a heavy load and you don't plan on keeping it past 100,000 miles, then you may want to consider a gas engine. They run smoother, fuel is easier to find and they're easier to start in cold weather. However, if you use your truck for towing, value good fuel economy, and plan on racking up loads of miles, then a diesel is for you. In the end, the leading disappointment regarding diesels is that the price to add a diesel to a 3/4- or 1-ton pickup is still quite high versus a more powerful gas engine. But, you'll make this back in fuel savings over time. On the flip side, we were pleased to find that manufacturers continue to develop diesel technology, especially in the areas of cold starting, combustion smoothness, and emissions. Now we need diesels in 1/2-ton pickups and midsize SUVs.

copied from:
http://www.advanceautoparts.com/english ... 101gd.html
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Sweeper
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Post by Sweeper »

Yep that pretty much sums up diesels.
I still wonder what the fastest diesel ran in the 1/4 mile...
Though I know Mercedes back in the 70's or so built a 300HP diesel car...
But no quarter mile times on it :(
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Pelado
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Post by Pelado »

Lots of good information. I disagree with a couple of that but...its a good coment anyway. :wink:
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Post by boganbusman »

boganbusman wrote:Can one of the mods please make this sticky?
Well?

GT?

Stig?

Anyone?

Edit: Sweet, thnx. :D
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Post by 240SX_Drifter_ »

uhh
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Post by cars_rule »

hey ppl......i'm a new user and i dtill dont understand how to put my cars on the site.......n e 1 giv me a hand???
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PSZeTa
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Post by PSZeTa »

Lowering your car will affect your performance.. It got mentioned in the topic with the nice Eagle Talon.

Why?
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boganbusman
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Post by boganbusman »

It's because of weight transfer. If your car is higher, the weight will shift to the back wheels more easily, and you will get better traction.

If the car is lower, then it's harder for the weight to shift onto the back wheels, and your traction won't be as good.

But it only works for a RWD or 4WD car.
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Grez~Supra_RZ-S
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Post by Grez~Supra_RZ-S »

Also, the lower the car is, the less air resistance it is likely to encounter.

In general, people will usually lower their cars to increase its stability in turns, as it cuts down on the amount of roll the car suffers from as a result of a large weight shift.
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Sweeper
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Post by Sweeper »

Interresting...
Now thats helpful for my GT4 braking drift problems!

Lately now I have runned into some rim and tire problems.
Like you get to know that the tire is a 225 R18 tire for an example, how do you find a rim that is suited to that tire when you just get to know the inches of the rim and width?

I have tried to see the formula in this when playing Street Legal, but it often ends up in trial and error, which can get costly in the end ;)

So how is it done?
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Post by boganbusman »

225 is the width of the tire in millimetres. R18 means that the tire is suited for an 18 inch wheel.

Is that what you wanted to know?
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Post by Sweeper »

boganbusman wrote:225 is the width of the tire in millimetres. R18 means that the tire is suited for an 18 inch wheel.

Is that what you wanted to know?
Thats all there is to it? Not more complicated than that?
Heh, well how do you go on calculating the tire size, like the 225 tire I mentioned, it may be like 225 and xx milimetre that is mentioned, I am guessing that is the height of the tire or something?

Anyways, the problem is, that the number is probably in mm (Milimeters) but when looking at rims it is all inches, 18x6 rims for an instance, thats when it starts to get headachy again if you understand.

Sorry for my bad explaination, I guess a screenshot will explain better, will get to it for tomorrow.
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Post by boganbusman »

OK here is a bit more of an explanation:

If the tire is a 225/45 R18, then that means it is 225mm wide, has a sidewall of 45mm, and is suited for an 18 inch rim.

If a rim has dimension of 18x6, then that means it is 18 inches in diameter, and it's 6 inches wide.

Anything else?
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Post by PSZeTa »

Nein. It's not a sidewall of 45 mm. It's a percentage. 225 x 0,45 = a sidewall of 101,25 mm.
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Post by Sweeper »

One final rim question, what does ET-100 rim mean?


Then onto suspension question:

Camber angle is first one up, I know you put the tires outwards and slightly sideways when you up the camber angle but how does it work in practical? They say it improves cornering at cost of tire wear but still, isn't it more effective to have 100% contact patch to the ground to achieve the best grip?
That was what I thought at least.

Then Toe, what is the toe adjustment? How does Toe work in practical application?
If we assume a car that is ment to oversteer.
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Post by boganbusman »

PSZeTa wrote:Nein. It's not a sidewall of 45 mm. It's a percentage. 225 x 0,45 = a sidewall of 101,25 mm.
My bad :oops:

I have no idea what ET-100 means.

Camber is the angle of the tires when you look at them front-on. If the tires are leaning in, then you have negative camber. This gives you better grip in corners becuase it makes the tires level with the road when the car rolls to the side. But it will also give you worse braking and acceleration because when the car is not rolling to the side, less of the tire is contacting the ground. It's sort of hard to explain.

Toe is the angleof the tires when you look at them from above. If the front of the tires are pointing in, then that means you have negative toe, or toe in. This will give you more steering response but it will be harder to change direction quickly. Using toe out will give the opposite effect. It will make it harder to turn in, but it will be easier to change direction quickly. Once again this is also sort of hard to explain.

Any help on this would be appreciated, because I don't know that much.

Some games like GT4 and GTR will give you explanations on these things as well.
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Post by PSZeTa »

The ET is if correct, where the heart of the rim is positioned. Like deepdish rims.
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Post by Dragon-of-Rune »

I just wanna know if it is smart to buy this car and what to pay for it.
I found it on marktplaats price is talkeble.

Nissan Skyline GTR33 60000Km on teller 550Pk

Yrs: 95/98
model: GTR 33
Color : Black

modified parts as follows:
1. Forxx(same as te37 materials) Piston
2. CAM 26427 (Kansai = HKS)
3. Mines computer air flow meter
4. HKS fuel injection pipe
5.Nismo gas jet 600cc /pc x 6
6. Cusco lubicant oil pump
7. Cusco lubicant oil gas collection tank
8. SADE 280 liter Gas pump
9. EIS electric stablizer
10. Tein RS shock & spring
11. HKS GT intercooler
12. HKS 13-19 oil cooler
13. HKS header
14. HKS mid piping
15. HKS muffler
16. 2530 turbo
17. Rays TE37 Mag wheel with the size 18" x 9.5"
18. Nismo guage inside the car
19. Nisam dash (white color with max 320km)
20. ARC water coolant disfuser
21. Koyo big water cooler22. Top secret front bumper

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Post by Grez~Supra_RZ-S »

As a modified GTR, you'd be paying around 15k for that in the UK.

As for sensibility, thats really upto you. Are you looking for a fast road/drag car with low mpg? If yes, go for it. You wont find much more fun than an R33. But it will be expensive, parts will break. ;)
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Post by Dragon-of-Rune »

Grez~Supra_RZ-S wrote:But it will be expensive, parts will break. ;)
I don't need a expensive car. I also found a nice eclipse from 1996 for 8750, with 139500km and it is stock except for sport rimm, filter and muffler and it is lowered, and a kenwood audio system + Ecotek CB-26P kit for better engine performence. I think i'll buy that one and spend the rest off my money for the car mods, but before i do i will look for other cars aswell see what is out there on the market, some guy can also import a toyota supra 3.0 twin turbo from england (his second house is there he says) only problem is that the stearing wheel is on the right side.

Also found on marktplaats(a handy site for if you want to buy a car and not want to use your mom's car because you can't mod it because she uses it for grosery's and stuff)
Eclipse
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Supra
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ca$h
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Post by ca$h »

That supra is not a good look man....
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Post by Grez~Supra_RZ-S »

The kit is veilside, it has Lenso concept 5 style wheels in a decent size (looks like 18"s) and it has an FMIC, indicating its a TT. I fail to see whats wrong with it.
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boogd@n
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rx8 engine

Post by boogd@n »

can anyone explain me how the rotative engine from mazda rx8 works :?:
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