[ ZEROGÔKI : 零号機 ]
Posted: 21 Jul 2008, 07:44
1988 Toyota AW11 MR2 hardtop
Australian-delivered
Why is it called Zerogôki? Because I'm an EVA geek.
Engine: 4A-GTE
1.6L DOHC 16v EFI
Trans: C-52
5-speed manual
----------
Current list of upgrades:
----------
Engine:
- Full rebuild; bored to 0.5mm over, crankshaft balanced, block and head decked on CNC machine, 9.6:1 compression ratio
- Cometic 1mm head gasket
- ACL Race Series bearings
- OEM 4A-GZE 'smallport' pistons
- ARP fasteners (head studs, main studs, connecting rod bolts)
- TechnoToyTuning adjustable cam gears
- TechnoToyTuning lightweight single-row crank pulley w/ 36-1 trigger wheel
- Upgraded valve springs
- Garrett GT2860RS turbocharger w/ .64 A/R turbine housing
- Speed-Source stainless turbo manifold
- Removed TVIS mechanism from intake manifold
Fuel Delivery:
- 550cc SARD fuel injectors
- Walbro 255lph fuel pump (in-tank)
- Aeromotive 13109 fuel pressure regulator w/ Speco liquid-filled pressure gauge
- AN-6 stainless-steel braided feed lines
Engine Management:
- MegaSquirt III PCBv3.0 running MSX code
- TechEdge 2J1 wideband oxygen sensor controller
- Bosch LSU 4.2 7200 wideband oxygen sensor
- Ford EDIS4 ignition system
- J&S Safeguard Vampire 2-channel knock controller
- Bosch knock sensor
- GM open-element air temperature senor
Intercooling:
- Frozenboost.com 600hp water-to-air intercooler
- Frozenboost.com aluminium heat exchanger (radiator) 24"x12"x1" w/ two 10" fans
- EMSPowered electric water pump (75lpm @ 0psi loss)
- 3/4" copper pipe and heater hose to make up the rest of the system
Transmission:
- Second-hand 4-puck sprung centre clutch (unknown brand)
- ARP flywheel bolts
- Relocated starter postion to the intake side, using a 4A-GZE starter motor
Exhaust:
- 3" from turbo back, mild steel. One straight-through muffler and a Magnaflow catalytic converter.
Suspension/Steering:
- Custom Bilstein inverted-damper coilover struts with Swift Springs (12kF/7kR)
- TechnoToyTuning camber-adjustable spherical-bearing strut top mounts
- Prothane urethane bushings (full kit)
- Quaife quick-ratio steering rack (2 turns lock-to-lock)
- Stainless steel rear tie-rods
- Removed both sway bars
Brakes:
- RDA slotted brake rotors, front + rear
- Goodridge stainless steel braided brake hoses, front + rear
- Porterfield R4S brake pads, front + rear
Wheels/Tyres:
- Rota Grid-V 15x8 +0, bronze
- Hankook Ventus R-S3 225/45R15
- Full-size spare wheel replaced with space-saver
Exterior:
- RPM Racegear bonnet pins on the front
- Gas-strut for engine bay lid
- DIY sleepy-eye mod (thanks to Jon)
- Custom number plates
Interior:
- CAMS-certified half cage from Meridian Motorsport
- Kirkey aluminium race seat
- RPM Racegear 6-point FIA approved harness
- Racetech and Prosport gauges for boost, oil temp, oil pressure, intercooler water temp and AFR
- Speedhut Revolution GPS speedometer
- Speedhut Revolution tachometer
- Moved battery location to the front boot, using an Odyssey PC680 battery
- JonO short shifter w/ RSe drop plate
- Speed-Source aluminium shifter base bushings + brass shift cable bushings
- New leather shifter boot
- TRD Duracon shift knob
- Modified driver's side power window circuitry to enable auto-up
- Replaced green dash cluster illumination globes with red LEDs
- Darkest legal window tint from Tint-a-Car
----------
Stuff to do next:
- Get the engine run-in, and then tuned on the dyno
- ZG fender flares and wider wheels
- Replace the clutch with something better because it slips under high boost which sucks balls
- Install Bilstein SW20 coilovers. Need to get them adapted for the AW11 +rebuilt +revalved +resprung
----------
Future plans:
- If the gearbox or driveshafts break then I will probably upgrade to an E-58 or E-153 (after crying)
- Limited-slip differential (TRD clutch-type or Cusco RS-type)
- New steering wheel?
- Straighten all panels and respray
----------
Pics:
Australian-delivered
Why is it called Zerogôki? Because I'm an EVA geek.
Engine: 4A-GTE
1.6L DOHC 16v EFI
Trans: C-52
5-speed manual
----------
Current list of upgrades:
----------
Engine:
- Full rebuild; bored to 0.5mm over, crankshaft balanced, block and head decked on CNC machine, 9.6:1 compression ratio
- Cometic 1mm head gasket
- ACL Race Series bearings
- OEM 4A-GZE 'smallport' pistons
- ARP fasteners (head studs, main studs, connecting rod bolts)
- TechnoToyTuning adjustable cam gears
- TechnoToyTuning lightweight single-row crank pulley w/ 36-1 trigger wheel
- Upgraded valve springs
- Garrett GT2860RS turbocharger w/ .64 A/R turbine housing
- Speed-Source stainless turbo manifold
- Removed TVIS mechanism from intake manifold
Fuel Delivery:
- 550cc SARD fuel injectors
- Walbro 255lph fuel pump (in-tank)
- Aeromotive 13109 fuel pressure regulator w/ Speco liquid-filled pressure gauge
- AN-6 stainless-steel braided feed lines
Engine Management:
- MegaSquirt III PCBv3.0 running MSX code
- TechEdge 2J1 wideband oxygen sensor controller
- Bosch LSU 4.2 7200 wideband oxygen sensor
- Ford EDIS4 ignition system
- J&S Safeguard Vampire 2-channel knock controller
- Bosch knock sensor
- GM open-element air temperature senor
Intercooling:
- Frozenboost.com 600hp water-to-air intercooler
- Frozenboost.com aluminium heat exchanger (radiator) 24"x12"x1" w/ two 10" fans
- EMSPowered electric water pump (75lpm @ 0psi loss)
- 3/4" copper pipe and heater hose to make up the rest of the system
Transmission:
- Second-hand 4-puck sprung centre clutch (unknown brand)
- ARP flywheel bolts
- Relocated starter postion to the intake side, using a 4A-GZE starter motor
Exhaust:
- 3" from turbo back, mild steel. One straight-through muffler and a Magnaflow catalytic converter.
Suspension/Steering:
- Custom Bilstein inverted-damper coilover struts with Swift Springs (12kF/7kR)
- TechnoToyTuning camber-adjustable spherical-bearing strut top mounts
- Prothane urethane bushings (full kit)
- Quaife quick-ratio steering rack (2 turns lock-to-lock)
- Stainless steel rear tie-rods
- Removed both sway bars
Brakes:
- RDA slotted brake rotors, front + rear
- Goodridge stainless steel braided brake hoses, front + rear
- Porterfield R4S brake pads, front + rear
Wheels/Tyres:
- Rota Grid-V 15x8 +0, bronze
- Hankook Ventus R-S3 225/45R15
- Full-size spare wheel replaced with space-saver
Exterior:
- RPM Racegear bonnet pins on the front
- Gas-strut for engine bay lid
- DIY sleepy-eye mod (thanks to Jon)
- Custom number plates
Interior:
- CAMS-certified half cage from Meridian Motorsport
- Kirkey aluminium race seat
- RPM Racegear 6-point FIA approved harness
- Racetech and Prosport gauges for boost, oil temp, oil pressure, intercooler water temp and AFR
- Speedhut Revolution GPS speedometer
- Speedhut Revolution tachometer
- Moved battery location to the front boot, using an Odyssey PC680 battery
- JonO short shifter w/ RSe drop plate
- Speed-Source aluminium shifter base bushings + brass shift cable bushings
- New leather shifter boot
- TRD Duracon shift knob
- Modified driver's side power window circuitry to enable auto-up
- Replaced green dash cluster illumination globes with red LEDs
- Darkest legal window tint from Tint-a-Car
----------
Stuff to do next:
- Get the engine run-in, and then tuned on the dyno
- ZG fender flares and wider wheels
- Replace the clutch with something better because it slips under high boost which sucks balls
- Install Bilstein SW20 coilovers. Need to get them adapted for the AW11 +rebuilt +revalved +resprung
----------
Future plans:
- If the gearbox or driveshafts break then I will probably upgrade to an E-58 or E-153 (after crying)
- Limited-slip differential (TRD clutch-type or Cusco RS-type)
- New steering wheel?
- Straighten all panels and respray
----------
Pics: